> TEOTWAWKI Blog: More PVC Sheaths



More PVC Sheaths

A collection of PVC sheaths from reader Ugly Rooster - here's his comments:

A little background on the pieces:
Obviously, one of the blades is a Sharpfinger-Old Timer, but the sheath is mine.
You can see a total lack of belt attachment accessories except two holes and cord-
This is totally sufficient and compatible with MOLLE or a similar platform.
Also, placing it under the waist belt makes for a secure ride-high and concealed.
I have worked with Kydex and found that PVC is as easy to work with.

The  pictured blades are reciprocating saw blades, once upon a time. So they are free after they are dulled, or they can be had new for about $3 to $7 bucks. They are suited to make fine fixed blade-full tang blades. The one limitation is blade length. They really need to stay at or under 4" if ergonomics, functionality and strength are to be retained. A note about the steel... It is high carbon, heat treated with a Rockwell hardness in the low 50's. Sound familiar? Yep, same steel or similar as to what is in the high dollar blades... If you can find them! The metal is a tad softer due in part to the abuse they are made for.

A note about the steel...
These are already heat treated, so while working them, it is critical to not let them get hot. Dunk them in a cup of water often during the sanding and grinding. Does not apply if you use primitive tools. This cold process will maintain the steels temper. Happy scrounging!


  1. I saw/read somewhere about doing the same thing with hacksaw blades...got to keep them short, but supposed to make a razor sharp, handy little blade in a pinch.

  2. Ugly Rooster here

    Similar steels, hacksaw and reciprocating saw blades. But the size and thickness is quite different. A two and a half inch blade made from a good quality coarse tooth reciprocating blade is very VERY stout for its use. Hacksaw blades tend to be suited for fine scalpel level work.

    A side note, the texturing on the sheaths is accomplished by touching the surface with hot metal... Coat hanger, screwdriver, etc... The benefit is providing a gripping surface for drawing the blade out. Also it raises the surface which will protect the paint job and provide camo texture as it gets worn.


    I found another great knife billet source. The replacement blade for limb pruners. I am talking about the extending pole type sold at hardware stores.

    The blade is better than a foot long, CURVED, and wider than reciprocating saw blades. I checked into their composition and found they are carbon steel that has been hardened-heat treated. P-E-R-F-E-C-T

    Fiscars was the brands of blade I was looking into, I will work up a design and blade and let you know how it turns out.

    1. Any kind of shear/scissor/pruser can be made into a serviceable blade without too much work. IIRC, Randy Church has made at least one knife using an old set of sheep shears!